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Emerald: Complete Guide

Emeralds are a green variety of the mineral beryl. Although their hardness is at the higher end of the Mohs scale (with a rating of 7.5-8), most emeralds are considered brittle because of the numerous natural flaws inside them.

Here are some tips to help you select the best emerald for you when shopping.

Emerald gemstone

Emerald gemstone

Emerald Color

Most emeralds come in green color with faint bluish or yellowish hues.

However, there are two additional color characteristics that you should consider when evaluating an emerald: the intensity and darkness of its color.

  • Intensity refers to how saturated the color of an emerald is: Some stones have more of a dull look, while others exhibit a more intense, vivid green.
  • Darkness describes the tone of the color you can see in an emerald. This characteristic can vary from light to very dark green.
dark-green-emerald-pendant-necklace-gold

The emerald in this pendant has a dark green tone.

When choosing an emerald, you should look at both the intensity and darkness of its color.

Darkness is mostly a matter of personal taste, but you should know that the darkest emeralds are not necessarily the most expensive.

In fact, color intensity is even more important, and the higher it is, the higher the stone is valued.

The most valuable emeralds tend to have a strong green color that is moderately dark.

natural-Zambian-emerald-medium-green

Moderately dark emeralds that also have an intense green color are the most valuable.

Emerald Clarity

Clarity refers to the number, size and visibility of the flaws found in an emerald. The internal flaws that occurred naturally when the gemstone was formed are called inclusions.

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You should expect to find inclusions in an emerald, some of them visible; in fact, if it doesn’t have any, it is likely to be a fake emerald (or created in a lab).

When evaluating emerald for clarity, you should look at the stone with the naked eye and see if it looks clean.

emerald-stud-earrings

Emeralds should not have readily visible flaws that spoil the stone’s appearance.

In general, inclusions in emerald should not be so big as to detract from its appearance. Numerous inclusions that are too large can compromise the stone’s structure and make the emerald more likely to break.

Avoid emeralds with inclusions that are too close to the surface, especially if these flaws are in the form of long lines and cracks: Such inclusions make a stone more vulnerable to damage.

In general, the fewer inclusions an emerald has and the less visible they are, the more valuable a stone is. Choose a stone with inclusions that are either invisible or barely visible to the naked eye, and avoid heavily included stones, which can easily break.

Emeralds and Carat Weight

When used in the context of gemstones, carat refers to the weight of a particular stone: One carat (denoted by 1 ct) is equal to 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams.

When it comes to carat, the bigger an emerald, the more expensive it is.

In fact, an emerald that is twice as large as another stone of the same quality will not be twice as expensive, but the increase in price is likely to be much higher. The reason for this is that bigger emeralds are very hard to find, and their rarity makes them very pricey.

How big an emerald you would like to buy is up to you, but keep in mind that it is very hard to find a stone that is both large and top quality, and such an emerald would cost you a lot of money.

Settings and Emeralds

The mounting your emerald is set in will determine how exposed its surface will be to occasional hits and bumps, which may damage it.

For best protection, have your emerald set in a bezel setting or a V-prong setting:

  • Bezel settings hold the gemstone by encircling it with a metal band, fully or partially.
  • V-prong settings are most suitable for stones with angular cuts (e.g., the classic emerald cut), as the prongs are shaped in the form of the letter “V” in order to grasp the stone firmly at its corners.
emerald-earrings-bezel-setting

Earrings with emerald in bezel setting

Emerald Treatments

A lot of emeralds on the market today are treated to enhance their appearance: The stones’ internal fissures that reach their surface are filled with oils and resins to make the flaws less visible.

emerald-earrings-oil-treated

The emeralds in these earrings have been oiled to make the stones’ inclusions less visible.

This is common practice, but you should keep in mind that you shouldn’t put treated emeralds in ultrasonic cleaners as the ultrasound vibrations can destroy the fillers. Instead, use a soft, damp cloth to clean dirt off your emerald.

Sometimes, emeralds are dyed to enhance their color, but you should be aware that these stones are less valuable.

Synthetic vs. Imitation Emeralds

simulated-emerald-pendant

A pendant with a simulated (or an imitation) emerald

Imitation emeralds are stones that are made of another material that makes them look like real emeralds. However, these stones are considered fake and are rather cheap.

 

created-emerald-ring

The created (or synthetic) emerald in this ring has the same chemical composition as natural emeralds.

Synthetic emeralds (or created emeralds), on the other hand, are created in a lab and have the same chemical composition and physical properties as natural emeralds.

Because they are made synthetically, however, these stones are more affordable than their naturally occurring counterparts.

Emerald Symbolism

Unlike the red ruby, which is a blatant statement of passionate love, the emerald conveys a more complex set of symbolism and emotions.

Emerald gemstone

Round emerald gemstone

Green, by nature, is the most calming of all the colors on the color wheel.

It encourages growth, reflection, peace and balance. It also represents healing and fertility.

The verdant tones reflected in the jewel are tempered by a cool blue which symbolizes a steadfast bond.

This, along with the gem’s rarity, makes the stone a unique alternative to a traditional diamond engagement ring.

When you give an emerald, you are showing a dash of humility. People who don’t yet have everything figured out in life are considered “green,” or a bit naive.

This is actually a positive thing when you consider that a new life together as a couple is defined by many unforeseen obstacles that you must tackle together and learn from.

Emerald green also suggests the concept of eternity, as it is a color that constantly renews itself in nature through generations.

Another reason that the emerald has come to symbolize a more mature love can be traced to Hindu culture.

Emerald green is the color that is used to align the heart chakra, or energy point, allowing feelings of love to low freely from a person’s core.

How to Wear an Emerald

Consider Your Wardrobe

The emerald is a statement stone that speaks for itself. The main wardrobe rule to remember when wearing an emerald ring is to keep it sleek and simple.

Ring with bright green emerald stones

Ring with bright green emerald stones

Clothing with clean lines and solid coloration is best suited for showcasing this gemstone. Wearing a loud ensemble with a bold emerald piece will confuse the eye and detract from the overall look.

Neutral tones look best with the deep green of the stone. Black is the ideal shade as it brings out the vibrancy of the stone’s color while complementing its depth.

The same applies to makeup and hair. Keep it classic and elegant. Use the jewelry as a focal point and wear clothing that brings out its greatest features.

Pick Other Accessories

Depending on the cut of your outfit, one bold statement piece on the hand might make your head to toe look feel a bit unbalanced.

You can combine other pieces of jewelry with an emerald ring, but the same concept of simplicity applies.

Since the ring is worn lower on the body, you might consider wearing small-scale earrings or a delicate pendant.

As emeralds are bold standalone stones, they do not mix well with many other types of gems. Neutral diamonds and plain metals will accent the emerald well without detracting from it.

Silver toned metal, as opposed to gold toned, will reflect the purity of the emerald’s color and enhance it.

Emeralds of course can be worn with other emeralds, but it is important to consider scale. A large ring worn with large earrings or a sizeable necklace can easily look overdone.

The Technique

Emerald stones, especially those set in rings, require special care and precautions. They are not meant for everyday wear.

Emeralds tend to be brittle and most have tiny natural cracks that make them vulnerable to chipping and shattering; the less contact with the stone, the better.

It is best not to wear the ring on your dominant hand so the chance for accidents is kept to a minimum.

Never wash your hands or apply lotion with the ring on as this will damage the stone, affect the color, and dull its shine.

Always put the ring on last, after you have applied makeup, styled your hair, and dressed.

Even little snags or smudges could potentially harm the stone. While perfect for formal events, wearing an emerald ring anywhere else is risky, so carefully consider where you are going before putting it on.

Let yourself sparkle and shine without worrying about damaging your prized precious jewel.

How to Clean and Care for Your Emeralds

As a general rule, you should clean your emeralds a few times a year.

Some people take their jewelry to a professional to have it cleaned, but you can also take care of your emeralds yourself. Just follow these instructions:

1. Use a soft micro-fiber cloth to remove the oil and dirt accumulated on the emerald jewelry.

2. Fill a bowl with lukewarm water and put some mild soap in it. Place the jewelry into the soap and water mixture.

3. Use a soft toothbrush or a jewelry brush to clean off the jewelry. Be sure to use the brush to get into those hard-to-reach areas and clean them thoroughly.

4. Fill a second bowl with lukewarm rinse water. Submerge the jewelry fully in it and check to make sure that no soapy residue is left on the emeralds.

5. Dry the jewelry with a soft clean micro-fiber towel. Once the jewelry is dry, it is ready to be stored or worn again.

Do not use an ultrasonic cleaner on emerald jewelry.

Also, avoid using commercial jewelry cleaner on your emeralds.

Ultrasonic devices and commercial jewelry cleaners will remove the oils that the emeralds have been treated with and will cause damage to the gemstones.

Wearing and Storing Your Emeralds

Never wear your emeralds while showering, swimming or sleeping.

Always put your jewelry on after you’ve applied make-up, hairspray or perfume, or the chemicals may damage the emeralds.

Your emerald jewelry can be easily scratched, so be sure to store it separately from other gemstones.

Emerald jewelry may need to be re-oiled after several years, and this procedure should only be done by a professional.

It is a good idea to talk with a jeweler and find out whether your emeralds need re-oiling and how much the service will cost.

Where to Buy Emeralds?

We recommend James Allen (read review) because you can take a 360-degree look at any emerald before having it set in a piece of jewelry. 

We also recommend Blue Nile and Ross-Simons.

Disclosure: Some of the links on our site may help us earn affiliate commissions from advertisers. As an Amazon Associate, we may earn from qualifying purchases. Learn more

Read Next

  • How to Detect a Fake Emerald Gemstone
  • How to Determine the Value of an Emerald Ring
More: Emerald Gemstones


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Additional Resources
  • Emerald Buying Guide
  • Emerald Quality Factors
  • Emerald Description
  • Emerald History and Lore
  • Three-Phase Inclusions in Emerald and Their Impact on Origin Determination
  • Does GIA grade emeralds?
  • Emerald – GIA Gem Encyclopedia

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