Martini-style is a popular type of earring setting, and you should be familiar with its construction and characteristics if you’re going to be shopping for earrings. Let’s see how martini-style diamond studs are made and what their pros and cons are in comparison with other settings.
How Diamond Studs Are Made
A diamond stud earring consists of a metal setting and a diamond held by it.
The diamonds used in studs are usually smaller than 1 carat. Most often, the stones in the earrings are round or rectangular, as these are some of the most popular cuts.
Diamond stud earrings are usually made with platinum, white gold, or yellow gold.
What Settings Are Used in Diamond Studs?
Usually, diamond studs are made with a prong or bezel setting.
Prong settings hold the diamond with metal projections, which are referred to as prongs. Stones in diamond studs are usually held by 3 or 4 prongs, although some models have more.
Bezel settings hold diamonds by wrapping them with a band of metal around the edge. They are considered safer than prong settings, but some people find that bezels hide more of the surface of the diamond.
Depending on their shape and construction, diamond stud settings can be subdivided into three main types: basket-style setting, crown-style setting, and martini-style setting.
These settings differ most notably in the shape of their bottom as well as how far from the earlobe the diamond in the earring sits.
Martini-Style Setting Explained
The martini-style earring setting has a cone-like shape, so the bottom of the setting gradually becomes narrower. The profile of this setting resembles a martini glass, and this is where the name comes from.
The setting itself is made up of a metal frame and usually has 3 prongs, although 4-prong martini-style settings are also common.
A characteristic of this setting is not only its narrow bottom, whose design differs from that of the basket-style and the crown-style setting, but also the fact that the diamond is set low in the frame, close to the ear.
Pros and Cons of Martini-Style Diamond Studs vs. Other Earring Settings
As already mentioned, martini-style diamond studs differ from other earrings in terms of how the setting is designed. For example, the basket-style setting is also made up of a metal frame, but its bottom is flat.
The crown-style setting is also flat at the point where it touches the earlobe, but this type of setting usually has a more solid construction than that of the basket-style setting, and the diamond sits farther from the ear.
One of the good things about the martini-style setting is that it holds the stone closer to the earlobe, improving the balance of the stud when it is worn.
In contrast, diamonds in crown-style settings project farther out, as do stones in many basket-style settings.
Another advantage of the martini-style setting is that it is usually made with less metal compared with the crown-style setting. As a result, diamonds in martini-style studs tend to be more visible and have greater brilliance.
The most often cited concern about the martini-style setting is that its narrow bottom could dig into the ear hole and even stretch it.
Whether this actually happens varies from person to person. Many people wear martini-style earrings without experiencing any problems, but this potential issue is something you should think about when choosing diamond studs.
Where to Buy Diamond Earrings?
For diamond earrings and studs, we highly recommend James Allen (read our review) because it shows real photos and videos for each diamond so you can take a 360-degree look at any stone before having it set in the earrings of your choice.
For colored diamonds, we recommend Leibish & Co., which specializes in fancy color diamonds (use code JewelryNotes200 at checkout to get a 5% discount).
Also read our Diamond Buying Guide and check out our selection of eye-clean diamonds that we've vetted for quality.